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  3. When Thomas Keller, one of America’s foremost chefs, announced that on Sept. 1 he would abolish the practice of tipping at Per S

When Thomas Keller, one of America’s foremost chefs, announced that on Sept. 1 he would abolish the practice of tipping at Per S

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问题     When Thomas Keller, one of America’s foremost chefs, announced that on Sept. 1 he would abolish the practice of tipping at Per Se, his luxury restaurant in New York City, and replace it with a European-style service charge, I knew three groups would be opposed: customers, servers and restaurant owners. These three groups are all committed to tipping—as they quickly made clear on Web sites. To oppose tipping , it seems, is to be anti-capitalist, and maybe even a little French.
    But Mr. Keller is right to move away from tipping—and it’s worth exploring why just about everyone else in the restaurant world is wrong to stick with the practice.
    Customers believe in tipping because they think it makes economic sense. "Waiters know that they won’t get paid if they don’t do a good job" is how most advocates of the system would put it. To be sure, this is a tempting, apparently rational statement about economic theory, but it appears to have little applicability to the real world of restaurants.
    Michael Lynn, an associate professor of consumer behavior and marketing at Cornell’s School of Hotel Administration, has conducted dozens of studies of tipping and has concluded that consumers’ assessments of the quality of service correlate weakly to the amount they tip.
Rather, customers are likely to tip more in response to servers touching them lightly and leaning forward next to the table to make conversation than to how often their water glass is refilled—in other words, customers tip more when they like the server, not when the service is good. Mr. Lynn’s studies also indicate that male customers increase their tips for female servers while female customers increase their tips for male servers.
    What’s more, consumers seem to forget that the tip increases as the bill increases. Thus, the tipping system is an open invitation to what restaurant professionals call "upwelling": every bottle of imported water, every espresso and every cocktail is extra money in the server’s pocket. Aggressive upwelling for tips is often rewarded while low-key, quality service often goes unrecognized.
    In addition, the practice of tip pooling, which is the norm in fine-dining restaurants and is becoming more common in every kind of restaurant above the level of a greasy spoon, has ruined whatever effect voting with your tip might have had on an individual waiter. In an unreasonable outcome, you are punishing the good waiters in the restaurant by not tipping the bad one. Indeed, there appears to be little connection between tipping and good service.
We may infer from the context that "upwelling" (Para. 6) probably means
选项 A、selling something up.
B、selling something fancy.
C、selling something unnecessary.
D、selling something more expensive.
答案D
解析 含义题。根据关键词定位到第六段。本段开头说：消费者似乎忘记了这样一个事实，即账单消费越多，小费也越多。因此小费制度就等于变相公开邀请饭店服务员“upwelling”，冒号后面解释了什么是upwelling：每瓶进口水、每杯高级咖啡、每杯鸡尾酒都意味着侍者口袋里额外的小费。下文接着提到Aggressive upwelling for tips is often rewarded，即这种upwelling的行为是为了得到小费。综上不难判断，答案为D项，upwelling意思是“卖出更贵的东西”。
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